Debt consolidation vs a home equity loan

By David Chen · Published October 11, 2026

Consolidating debt with a home equity loan is usually argued on the rate. That is where the argument is easiest to make and where it proves least. On the figures below an 8.00% home equity loan is genuinely cheaper than an 11.50% personal loan — for five years. Stretch the same loan to ten and it costs $3,208 more, with the rate unchanged at 8.00% throughout.

The comparison uses a $30,000 balance. Both routes are priced end to end, including the fee on one and the closing costs on the other, because the rate alone will not tell you which is cheaper.

The lower rate is not the cheaper loan

Two things move when you switch from an unsecured loan to a secured one, and only one of them is the rate. The rate falls, which helps. The fee structure changes, and the term is now yours to choose — which is a freedom that works in both directions. Set the term too long and the lower rate is applied over so many extra months that the total cost climbs well past what the higher rate would have charged.

That is the whole of the mechanism, and it is why a rate comparison is not a cost comparison. The difference between APR and interest rate is the general version of this point; here it is worked through on one specific balance.

Start with what you actually receive

The unsecured route in this example carries a 5% fee, deducted from the proceeds rather than paid separately. That single detail changes the principal, because the balance has to be grossed up before the deduction:

$30,000 ÷ (1 − 5%) = $31,578.95 borrowed, to receive $30,000

The extra $1,578.95 is real borrowing. It attracts interest, it is repaid over the 60 months, and it is the reason the unsecured column below is measured against a larger principal than the secured one. The home equity route has no equivalent gross-up — instead it carries a one-off $1,200 in closing costs, which enters the total without inflating the balance.

Four routes, priced end to end

Both products on the same $30,000, with the secured route shown at three terms. Total cost is everything paid over and above the $30,000 received — interest plus fees plus closing costs, with nothing netted off:

RouteRateTermBorrowedMonthlyTotal paidTotal costOf income
Unsecured personal loan11.50%60 mo$31,578.95$694.50$41,670.20$11,6709.26%
Home equity loan8.00%60 mo$30,000.00$608.29$36,497.51$7,6988.11%
Home equity loan8.00%120 mo$30,000.00$363.98$43,677.93$14,8784.85%
Home equity loan8.00%180 mo$30,000.00$286.70$51,605.21$22,8053.82%

Monthly income of $7,500, which is what the final column is measured against. Total cost includes the 5% fee in the first row and the $1,200 closing cost in the other three. Aggregates are rounded to the nearest dollar; monthly payments are to the cent. Produced by our calculator and independently recomputed.

Read down the total cost column and the shape of the decision appears. The shortest secured term costs $7,698 — comfortably the cheapest of the four, and $3,972 less than the unsecured loan. The longest costs $22,805, nearly three times as much, while cutting the monthly payment to $286.70, the lowest in the table.

The finding in one line: at 180 months the secured route saves $407.80 a month against the unsecured loan and costs $11,135 more in total. The monthly saving is more than half the unsecured payment; the extra cost is more than a third of the balance being consolidated.

The term is the variable that decides it

Holding the secured rate at 8.00% and varying only the term isolates what the length of the loan is doing:

Secured termMonthlyCut vs unsecuredTotal costChange in total cost
60 months$608.29$86.21$7,698−$3,972
120 months$363.98$330.52$14,878+$3,208
180 months$286.70$407.80$22,805+$11,135

Monthly cut is measured against the $694.50 unsecured payment; the change in total cost is measured against the $11,670 unsecured figure. Every figure in this table also appears in the one above. Produced by our calculator and independently recomputed.

Doubling the term from 60 months to 120 cuts the payment by $244.31 and adds $7,180 to the total cost. Tripling it to 180 months cuts the payment a further $77.28 — a much smaller gain — while adding another $7,927 of cost. The first extension is a real improvement in monthly breathing room; the second is a marginal one that carries the largest price tag in the table.

The crossover sits at 120 months. Below that, the secured route is cheaper overall than the unsecured one; at 120 months and beyond, it is not. That is one specific pair of rates and one specific balance, and a different spread would move the crossover — but the fact that a crossover exists at all is the part worth keeping.

What this arithmetic leaves out, on purpose

How to use this

The short version

On a $30,000 balance, an 8.00% secured loan repaid over 60 months costs $7,698 all in — $3,972 less than the 11.50% unsecured route, whose 5% fee forces it to borrow $31,578.95 to deliver $30,000. The same secured loan over 180 months cuts the payment to $286.70 but costs $22,805. The rate never changes; only the term does. The crossover is at 120 months, beyond which the cheaper rate stops producing the cheaper loan — and the house is collateral in every secured row.

Frequently asked questions

Why is the secured loan more expensive at ten years if the rate is lower?

Because the rate is applied over twice as many months. An 8.00% loan repaid over 120 months charges interest on a balance that stays outstanding far longer than an 11.50% loan repaid over 60. The lower rate reduces the cost per month of borrowing; the longer term increases the number of months you are borrowing. Past a certain point the second effect is larger, and on these figures that point sits at ten years — beyond it, the secured route costs more in total than the unsecured one.

Does the fee really mean I have to borrow more than I need?

Where a fee is deducted from the proceeds rather than paid separately, yes. To walk away with $30,000 when 5% is withheld, the loan has to be $31,578.95, because 95% of that figure is $30,000. The extra $1,578.95 is not a down payment — it is borrowing you did not want, on which you pay interest. Whether a particular loan works this way is stated in the disclosure, and some lenders charge the same cost as a separately paid fee instead, which produces a different total.

Is the 60-month secured loan the best answer then?

It is the cheapest of the four routes priced here, and that is a narrower statement than it sounds. It carries the highest secured monthly payment, $608.29, and it still uses the house as collateral. A household that cannot comfortably meet $608.29 a month has not been handed a solution by the total-cost column — it has been handed a cheaper loan with an unaffordable payment. Cheapest and most suitable are different tests, and only one of them is arithmetic.

What does a secured loan actually put at risk?

The home. An unsecured personal loan leaves a lender with no claim on the property if payments stop; a home equity loan is secured on it, which is what the lower rate is compensation for. That difference does not appear in any of the totals on this page, because it is not a number. It is the reason the lower rate exists, and it is worth pricing honestly rather than treating the saving as free money.

Should the comparison use the payment or the total?

Both, and in that order of priority. The payment decides whether the arrangement survives a bad month; the total decides whether it was a good idea. These four routes are a good illustration of why one alone is not enough: the 180-month option has the smallest payment of all, $286.70, and the largest total cost, $22,805 — more than twice what the 60-month secured loan costs. Whichever you start with, check the other before committing.

Related guides

  • HELOC vs home equity loan — The same $60,000 at the same 8.00% costs either $27,356 or $108,447 in interest. What the two products share, where they diverge, and why the draw period drives the whole bill.
  • How much home equity do I have? — $180,000 of equity is only $80,000 you can borrow, and a 10% price fall halves it. The three different answers to one question, with a full price-shock table.
  • Cash-out refinance vs HELOC — A cash-out refinance looks cheaper but reprices the loan you already had: $110,405 more interest in total, with a monthly payment $257.47 lower than the HELOC route.
  • APR vs interest rate — What each number actually measures, what APR leaves out, and the cases where comparing APR will lead you to the wrong lender.

Run your own numbers in the loan calculator.

Calculators for this topic

  • Personal loan calculator — Unsecured borrowing at the rates lenders actually quote, with the origination fee maths that decides whether the money is worth taking.
  • Mortgage calculator — Monthly payment with property tax, home insurance, HOA and PMI folded in — the number that actually leaves your account, not just principal and interest.
  • Amortization schedule — The full month-by-month and year-by-year breakdown of a fixed-rate loan, and how much interest an extra payment removes from the end of it.

See all calculators

This guide is educational and is not financial advice. Figures were produced by our calculator and independently recomputed before publication; your lender's own documents govern your loan. Spot an error? Tell us — see also our disclaimer.