Rent vs buy: the break-even year

By David Chen · Published October 3, 2026

Rent versus buy is usually argued as a preference. It is not: it is a cash-flow comparison with one genuinely unknowable input, and the part that can be calculated is larger than most people assume. The useful output is not “which is cheaper” but how long you have to stay for buying to have been the cheaper choice.

The example below is one house and one rent, carried through fifteen years month by month: a $420,000 home with 10% down at 6.50% over 30 years, against renting the equivalent place for $2,300 a month. Every figure comes from the model described in this section, and the model is stated in full so you can disagree with a specific assumption rather than with the conclusion.

What the model assumes

Six assumptions do most of the work. All are inputs you can change in the calculator; none are facts.

The assumption doing the most work is not the mortgage rate. It is the 3.00% appreciation rate, and it is the one input in this model that nobody can forecast. The sensitivity table further down shows what happens when it is wrong, which is the most important table on the page.

Fifteen years, month by month

Owning this home costs $3,274.22 a month at the start, against $2,300 in rent. The renter is therefore $974.22 a month better off in cash, and the model gives the renter credit for investing it. Both sides are then compared on the same basis — money out, minus what is still there at the end:

Over 15 yearsBuyingRenting
Paid out over the period$680,080$513,330
Invested at the start—$52,500
Still there at the end$334,269$289,525
Net cost$345,811$390,555

Buying includes the $52,500 paid at closing and every subsequent payment; what is still there is the sale proceeds after selling costs and repaying the mortgage. Renting includes the $52,500 invested instead, plus $974.22 a month as the cost difference, at 5.00%. Produced by our calculator and independently recomputed.

After fifteen years, buying is $44,744 ahead. That is a real number, and it is much smaller than the gap a mortgage rate comparison would suggest, because the renter's portfolio ends up worth $289,525 — $114,250 of contributions and $122,775 of investment gains on money that never went near a house.

The break-even is year 11

The single number that answers the practical question is the year the two paths cross. Below, positive means buying has become the cheaper option up to that point:

YearBuying is ahead by
1−$38,538
2−$36,750
3−$34,501
4−$31,753
5−$28,468
6−$24,603
7−$20,113
8−$14,951
9−$9,065
10−$2,402
11+$5,097
12+$13,494
13+$22,853
14+$33,245
15+$44,744

Cumulative difference over the whole holding period, in favour of buying when positive. Produced by our calculator and independently recomputed.

Seven years of losses, then a crossing in year 11. The first year alone costs $38,538 relative to renting — more than a tenth of the purchase price, gone before any equity exists worth speaking of. Anyone who buys expecting to be better off within two or three years is working from a model that does not include transaction costs.

What actually drives it

The buying side can be written as a single sum, which is also how the calculator checks itself: transaction costs at both ends, plus interest, plus the costs of holding the property, minus the appreciation.

The cost of owning, over 15 yearsAmount
Buying costs at the start (2.50%)$10,500
Selling costs at the end (7.00%)$45,804
Mortgage interest over 15 years$326,333
Property tax$85,927
Home insurance$33,478
Maintenance and repairs (1.00% a year)$78,115
Total cost of owning$580,157
Less: the home is worth more−$234,346
Net cost of buying$345,811

The same total is reached two ways — by summing the month-by-month cash flows, and by the closed form shown here. Both agree to the cent, which is one of the checks run before publication. Produced by our calculator and independently recomputed.

Two lines dominate. The first is $56,304 of round-trip transaction costs — $10,500 to get in and $45,804 to get out — which is money that buys nothing and is why the early years are so expensive. The second is interest: $326,333 against only $103,726 of principal repaid in fifteen years. On a $378,000 loan, fifteen years of payments clears a little over a quarter of it.

The rent side is simpler: $513,330 of rent over fifteen years, rising with inflation, offset by $122,775 of investment gains. Renting is not cheap; it is simply cheaper per month, and the difference is what the renter keeps.

The assumption that decides everything

Hold everything else fixed and vary only the annual rate of home price growth. The same fifteen years, the same house, the same rent:

Home prices grow atBuying ahead by (year 15)Break-even
0.00%−$173,198never
1.00%−$110,324never
2.00%−$38,102never
3.00%+$44,744year 11
4.00%+$139,650year 6
5.00%+$248,231year 4

All other inputs unchanged. Produced by our calculator and independently recomputed.

This is the honest core of the rent-versus-buy question. Across a two percentage point range — 1% to 3% a year, both entirely plausible for the same city over the same decade — the answer moves from “buying never catches up” to “buying is $44,744 ahead”. Below roughly 2.5% annual appreciation, buying loses on a fifteen-year view.

What to take from the table: not a forecast, but a threshold. Buying wins here only if prices rise faster than about 2.5% a year for the entire period. If you believe that, the case is strong. If you are not sure, the model is telling you that you are taking a leveraged position on house prices, and that this, rather than the mortgage rate, is the decision you are actually making.

What the model leaves out

Two omissions, both disclosed because both move the answer:

It also does not price the things that are not money: control of the property, security of tenure, and the ability to leave. A model can tell you that buying costs $38,538 more in the first year; it cannot tell you what you would pay to own the place.

The short version

On a $420,000 home with 10% down, against $2,300 a month in rent, buying costs $38,538 more than renting in year one and does not break even until year 11. It ends fifteen years $44,744 ahead — provided home prices rise about 3% a year. At 2% it never catches up. The round-trip transaction cost is $56,304, the interest over fifteen years is $326,333 against $103,726 of principal, and the renter ends with a $289,525 portfolio. The decision turns on the appreciation assumption, so work the range rather than the point.

Frequently asked questions

How many years does it take for buying to beat renting?

In this model, eleven. On a $420,000 home with 10% down, against rent of $2,300 a month, buying costs $38,538 more than renting in the first year and is still $2,402 behind at the end of year ten. It crosses over in year 11 and is $44,744 ahead by year 15. The reason the break-even is that late is that transaction costs are paid up front, while the benefit accumulates month by month.

Why is the first year so much more expensive?

Two reasons, and the first is larger. Buying costs 2.50% of the price at the start and 7.00% at the end, so a round trip through a $420,000 house costs $56,304 before you have paid a single month of interest. Second, in the early years almost the whole payment is interest: over fifteen years this loan pays $326,333 of interest against $103,726 of principal, and the split is at its worst in the first years.

Does the answer depend on house prices rising?

Almost entirely, and that is the honest problem with the question. At 3.00% a year appreciation, buying ends up $44,744 ahead after fifteen years. At 2.00% it never catches up within fifteen years and finishes $38,102 behind. At 5.00% it breaks even by year four. Nobody can forecast this, so the useful output is not one number but the range: buying only wins here if appreciation stays above about 2.5% a year for the whole period.

What does the comparison assume about the renter?

That the difference in monthly cost is invested rather than spent. Owning costs $3,274.22 a month on this home against $2,300 in rent, so the model credits the renter with investing $974.22 a month at the same 5.00% return, and that assumption is worth $114,250 of contributions and $122,775 of investment gains over fifteen years. Drop it, and buying looks far better than the table above — which is exactly why it is stated rather than buried.

Is the break-even the right way to decide?

It answers the money question, not the whole question. If you expect to move within seven years, the arithmetic above already says renting is cheaper, and the case is stronger than the table suggests because it does not price the cost of a forced sale. If you expect to stay for twenty years, the arithmetic favours buying, but it does so through an appreciation assumption you cannot verify in advance. What the model cannot price is the part people usually decide on: control of the property, and the freedom to leave.

Related guides

  • How much house can I afford? — Why the price a lender approves is not the price you should pay, how the debt-to-income rules work, and what the monthly figure has to cover beyond principal and interest.
  • 15-year vs 30-year mortgage — The same loan on both terms, side by side: what the shorter term saves, what it costs each month, and the affordability test that decides it.
  • Debt-to-income ratio — How front-end and back-end ratios are built, what counts towards them, where the commonly quoted ceilings come from, and what each ceiling buys in house price.
  • How to pay off a loan early — Why the same extra payment saves several times more interest early in the loan than late, worked through a mortgage and a car loan, and the cases where paying ahead is the wrong choice.

Run your own numbers in the loan calculator.

Calculators for this topic

  • Home affordability calculator — Works the mortgage question backwards: start from your income, debts and down payment, and find the price you can actually carry rather than the price a lender will approve.
  • Mortgage calculator — Monthly payment with property tax, home insurance, HOA and PMI folded in — the number that actually leaves your account, not just principal and interest.
  • Amortization schedule — The full month-by-month and year-by-year breakdown of a fixed-rate loan, and how much interest an extra payment removes from the end of it.

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This guide is educational and is not financial advice. Figures were produced by our calculator and independently recomputed before publication; your lender's own documents govern your loan. Spot an error? Tell us — see also our disclaimer.