FHA vs conventional loan

By David Chen · Published October 3, 2026

The case for an FHA loan is usually made in one number: 3.5% down. Conventional financing typically wants more, and the difference is real cash at closing. What that framing leaves out is the monthly arithmetic, and on a same-rate comparison the FHA loan turns out to be the more expensive one to carry — by a margin that is easy to measure.

Below, a $350,000 home financed two ways. Both loans are priced at the same 6.50% so that the comparison isolates the structure of each product rather than a rate quote, and both run 30 years.

Side by side

FHA, 3.5% downConventional, 5% downConventional, 20% down
Down payment$12,250$17,500$70,000
Upfront mortgage insurance$5,910.63——
Amount borrowed$343,660.63$332,500$280,000
Monthly principal and interest$2,172.17$2,101.63$1,769.79
Monthly mortgage insurance$154.80$152.40none
Total monthly$2,326.97$2,254.02$1,769.79
Insurance runs untilsee belowmonth 124—
Interest over 30 years$438,320$424,085$357,125

All three at 6.50% over 30 years on a $350,000 home. The FHA upfront premium of 1.75% is financed into the loan; the annual premium and the conventional PMI are both shown at 0.55% a year, an illustrative figure — actual pricing varies with the lender, the credit profile and the insurer. Produced by our calculator and independently recomputed.

The first row and the last row are the point. FHA needs $5,250 less at closing and charges $72.95 more every month. Over thirty years the FHA route pays $14,235 more interest on a loan that started smaller in cash terms but ended up larger in debt.

The counter-intuitive part: the smaller down payment does not reduce the monthly payment — it raises it. Putting less money in means borrowing more, and the FHA structure borrows more twice over: once for the smaller down payment, and again for an insurance premium that is financed rather than paid.

Where the $72.95 comes from

The gap is not one thing. It splits cleanly into two, and seeing the split tells you which part is negotiable and which is not:

CauseMonthly effect
Because the loan is $11,160.63 larger$70.54
Because the monthly insurance is higher$2.41
Total monthly gap$72.95

Same 6.50% rate and 30-year term on both loans, so the entire payment difference is explained by the loan amount and the insurance charge. Produced by our calculator and independently recomputed.

Almost all of it is the financed premium. The FHA loan is $11,160.63 larger than the conventional one — the difference between a $12,250 down payment and a $17,500 one, plus $5,910.63 of upfront insurance added to the balance — and every dollar of that is charged 6.50% for thirty years.

The monthly insurance itself is not the problem: $154.80 on the FHA side against $152.40 on the conventional side — a difference of $2.41 a month, taken from the unrounded figures so that the two parts add back to the $72.95 total. The two products are priced almost identically per month. What separates them is how long each one runs.

The insurance looks the same — the duration does not

On the conventional loan, the balance crosses 80% of the home value in month 124. At that point the $152.40 monthly charge stops, having cost $18,897.08 in total over those ten years and four months:

To size the asymmetric part without pretending to know the rule: if the FHA annual premium ran for eleven years, it would total $20,433.88, which is $1,537 more than the conventional charge over its whole life — and it would still be running while the conventional borrower was paying nothing.

How long the smaller down payment lasts

The cash saved at closing is not free money; it is money you will pay back through the monthly difference. Divide one by the other and you get the period over which the upfront saving is consumed:

$5,250 ÷ $72.95 = 71.97 months — a little under six years. Before that point, the FHA route has genuinely left you better off in cash terms. After it, the saving has been repaid and each further month costs you $72.95. Over a full thirty-year term there are a further 288 such months.

The ten-year view puts both effects in one place:

Over 120 monthsCash out of pocketCash at closing
FHA, 3.5% down$279,236.52$12,250
Conventional, 5% down$270,482.64$17,500
Difference+$8,753.88−$5,250

Monthly principal, interest and mortgage insurance only, for the period both loans are charging insurance. Produced by our calculator and independently recomputed.

Paying $8,753.88 more over ten years to save $5,250 at closing is a net cost of $3,503.88 — before counting the extra interest still owed on the larger balance.

The third option nobody compares

The cheapest column in the table above is not either of the ones people usually weigh against each other. At 20% down the payment is $1,769.79 with no mortgage insurance at all — $557.18 a month below the FHA route and $484.23 below the 5% conventional. The trade is $57,750 more cash up front, and whether that cash exists, and whether tying it up in a house is the best use for it, are questions about your own position rather than about the loan.

If the cash is close to available, it is worth pricing all three rather than assuming the choice is between the first two. If it is not, the home affordability calculator works the constraint from the income side instead, which is usually the binding one.

What FHA is actually for

None of the above makes FHA a bad product. It makes it a differently-priced product, and the price buys access rather than a discount:

For a borrower who can qualify conventionally, the arithmetic above is the one that applies. For a borrower who cannot, the comparison is not between two prices — it is between a loan and no loan, and in that case the higher monthly cost is the cost of the access.

One more honesty note: in practice FHA rates are often quoted slightly below conventional ones, which narrows the gap computed here. The reason this comparison holds the rate identical is that a rate quote is the product of a particular day, a particular lender and a particular credit profile, whereas the structural differences — the financed premium and the insurance duration — are the same for everyone.

To price your own case, the mortgage calculator handles the tax, insurance and premium lines together, closing costs explained covers what has to be paid in cash at the table, and how much house can I afford starts from the budget instead of the price.

The short version

FHA's 3.5% down payment saves $5,250 at closing on a $350,000 home and costs $72.95 more every month. Most of that is the financed upfront premium making the loan $11,160.63 larger; the monthly insurance charges themselves are nearly identical. The upfront saving is used up after 71.97 months, and the conventional side's insurance ends at month 124 while the FHA side's generally does not. If you can qualify for conventional financing, the smaller down payment is a more expensive loan, not a cheaper one.

Frequently asked questions

Is an FHA loan cheaper than a conventional loan?

Not on this comparison. At the same 6.50% rate on a $350,000 home, FHA needs $5,250 less at closing but costs $72.95 more every month and $14,235 more in interest over thirty years. Over ten years the FHA route takes $8,753.88 more out of your account; netting off the smaller down payment still leaves it $3,503.88 worse off. What FHA genuinely offers is a route to approval, not a lower price.

Why is the FHA payment higher when the down payment is smaller?

Because the upfront mortgage insurance premium is added to the loan. On this home the 1.75% upfront premium is $5,910.63, none of which is paid in cash, so the FHA loan is $343,660.63 against $332,500 conventional. That $11,160.63 of extra borrowing costs $70.54 a month on its own. The remaining $2.41 of the gap is the difference between the two monthly insurance charges.

Does the mortgage insurance ever go away?

On the conventional side, yes: on a $332,500 loan at 6.50% the balance crosses 80% of the home value in month 124, and the $152.40 charge stops, having cost $18,897.08 in total. On the FHA side the annual premium generally lasts considerably longer, and how long depends on the loan-to-value ratio at origination and on HUD's current rules, which have changed more than once. Check the HUD handbook and your loan documents rather than relying on a rule of thumb.

How long does it take before the smaller down payment stops paying?

Divide the cash you save at closing by the extra you pay each month. Here that is $5,250 divided by $72.95, which is 71.97 months — a little under six years. After that the saving has been given back, and every further month is a cost. If you expect to sell or refinance before then, the calculation changes; if you expect to keep the loan for thirty years, it does not.

Should I put 20% down instead and avoid mortgage insurance?

It makes the loan cheaper per month, and it needs a lot more cash. On this home 20% down means $70,000 rather than $12,250 — $57,750 more — and brings the monthly payment down to $1,769.79, which is $557.18 below the FHA route. Whether that is available and whether it is the best use of the cash are two separate questions, and both are answered by your own balance sheet rather than by a general rule.

Related guides

  • How to remove PMI from your mortgage — Why mortgage insurance ends when the balance crosses a threshold rather than after a fixed number of years, what it costs on a worked loan, and how a larger down payment or extra payments bring the date forward.
  • Debt-to-income ratio — How front-end and back-end ratios are built, what counts towards them, where the commonly quoted ceilings come from, and what each ceiling buys in house price.
  • How much house can I afford? — Why the price a lender approves is not the price you should pay, how the debt-to-income rules work, and what the monthly figure has to cover beyond principal and interest.
  • 15-year vs 30-year mortgage — The same loan on both terms, side by side: what the shorter term saves, what it costs each month, and the affordability test that decides it.

Run your own numbers in the loan calculator.

Calculators for this topic

  • Mortgage calculator — Monthly payment with property tax, home insurance, HOA and PMI folded in — the number that actually leaves your account, not just principal and interest.
  • Home affordability calculator — Works the mortgage question backwards: start from your income, debts and down payment, and find the price you can actually carry rather than the price a lender will approve.
  • Amortization schedule — The full month-by-month and year-by-year breakdown of a fixed-rate loan, and how much interest an extra payment removes from the end of it.

See all calculators

This guide is educational and is not financial advice. Figures were produced by our calculator and independently recomputed before publication; your lender's own documents govern your loan. Spot an error? Tell us — see also our disclaimer.