HELOC vs home equity loan
By David Chen · Published October 3, 2026
Both products let you borrow against the part of your home you own. Both are secured on the property. They are usually compared on the things that differ on the surface — a variable rate against a fixed one, a line you draw on against a lump sum — and that comparison misses where the money actually goes.
Below, $60,000 borrowed three ways. To keep the comparison honest, every version carries the same 8.00% rate: the only things that change are the structure of the draw and how long the repayment runs.
The same $60,000, three ways
| Strategy | Monthly payment | Interest over the life of the borrowing |
|---|---|---|
| HELOC, interest-only, 10-year draw then 20-year repayment | $400.00 → $501.86 | $108,447 |
| HELOC, principal paid down over the 10-year draw | $727.97 | $27,356 |
| Home equity loan, fixed, repaid over 15 years | $573.39 | $43,210 |
All three at 8.00% on $60,000. Horizons are matched at 30 years: the home equity loan is repaid in 15 and then costs nothing for the remaining 15, while both HELOC paths run the full 30. Produced by our calculator and independently recomputed.
The two HELOC rows are the same product, at the same rate, on the same balance — and they differ by a factor of almost four. The interest-only line costs $108,447; the amortising line costs $27,356. Nothing about which product you chose explains that gap. What explains it is whether the balance went down while you were making payments.
Why interest-only costs that much
An interest-only draw does exactly what the name says. On $60,000 at 8.00% the monthly charge is $400, and after ten years of paying it you have paid $48,000 in interest and still owe $60,000. The second phase then repays that untouched balance over whatever term remains, so you pay interest on the full amount for the whole thirty years rather than on a shrinking balance.
The comparison with the amortising version is not about discipline being rewarded. It is arithmetic: in the amortising case the outstanding balance falls every month, so every month's interest charge is smaller than the last. In the interest-only case the charge never falls, because the thing it is charged on never falls.
The fixed home equity loan sits between the two because it amortises from day one — but on a longer schedule than the amortising HELOC, and with a payment that is lower than that HELOC's precisely because it takes longer to clear the balance. On a $60,000 balance the fixed loan costs $43,210 and the ten-year amortising HELOC costs $27,356, and the difference is the term rather than the product.
The payment shock at the end of the draw
This is the number worth knowing before signing, because it arrives on a date that is usually a decade away when the paperwork is signed. At the end of a ten-year interest-only draw you owe $60,000 and must repay it over the twenty years that remain. What that does to the payment depends on where rates are by then:
| Rate when the draw ends | Payment over 20 years | Change from $400 |
|---|---|---|
| 7.00% | $465.18 | +16.29% |
| 8.00% | $501.86 | +25.47% |
| 9.00% | $539.84 | +34.96% |
| 10.00% | $579.01 | +44.75% |
| 11.00% | $619.31 | +54.83% |
$60,000 repaid over 240 months, so the balance is unchanged and the entire increase is the amortisation plus the rate. The 8.00% row is the unchanged-rate case. Produced by our calculator and independently recomputed.
Even with rates exactly where they started, the payment rises by 25.47% — from $400 to $501.86 — because you now have to clear the balance as well as service it. If rates are three points higher at that moment, the payment is $619.31, up from $400. A decade of paying $400 a month is a poor preparation for a $619.31 obligation.
Nothing about this is hidden; it is in the terms. It is simply easy to discount when it is ten years away, and it lands at the same time as whatever the money was borrowed for has finished being useful.
If rates move during the draw
A variable-rate line moves before that. On the same $60,000, an interest-only payment at 8.00% is $400; at 11.00% it is $550 — a 37.5% increase in the monthly cost, with the balance still exactly $60,000 either way. The fixed home equity loan cannot do that to you, and in exchange it cannot do you the favour either if rates fall.
That asymmetry is the actual decision. A fixed loan converts a rate you cannot control into one you can plan around; a line keeps both possibilities open. If the borrowing has a specific end date and a known amount, the fixed shape usually matches it. If you genuinely need to draw, repay and redraw — a staged renovation, for instance — the line is the only structure that fits, and the repayment phase should be budgeted for from the start rather than discovered later.
Two things worth checking before either one
- What secures the debt. Both of these put your home behind the borrowing. That is why the rates are lower than an unsecured personal loan, and it is also why the consequences of not paying are larger. Compare the unsecured alternative before deciding that the cheaper rate is the whole story.
- What the repayment phase costs you. Run the interest-only version on paper before accepting it: $48,000 of interest over ten years and a balance that has not moved is the outcome, and it is worth seeing that number before it is contractual rather than after.
If the reason for borrowing is a renovation or an extension, the improvement may also change what the property is worth — which affects both your loan-to-value ratio and, on a mortgage, whether mortgage insurance can be removed. The mortgage calculator handles the interaction between the two loan payments, and how to pay off a loan early covers what happens if you decide to attack the balance rather than the schedule.
The short version
On $60,000 at 8.00%, an interest-only HELOC costs $108,447 in interest — 2.51 times what a fixed home equity loan costs, and almost four times what the same HELOC costs if you amortise it over the draw. Interest-only for ten years means paying $48,000 and still owing $60,000, and the payment then rises to $501.86 even if rates have not moved. The product names decide very little. Whether the balance falls during the draw decides almost everything.
Frequently asked questions
Is a HELOC cheaper than a home equity loan?
Not as a product — it is cheaper or much more expensive depending on whether you pay down principal during the draw. Borrowing $60,000 at 8.00%: a HELOC repaid over its ten-year draw costs $27,356 in interest. The same HELOC drawn interest-only for ten years and then repaid over twenty years costs $108,447. A fixed home equity loan over fifteen years costs $43,210. The product names explain none of that difference.
What is the payment shock at the end of a draw period?
During an interest-only draw you pay interest and nothing else, so the balance is exactly where it started. On $60,000 at 8.00% that is $400 a month for ten years, after which you still owe $60,000 and have to repay it over the remaining term. Over a twenty-year repayment at 8.00% the payment becomes $501.86 — 25.47% higher — and at 11.00% it becomes $619.31, which is 54.83% higher.
What happens if rates rise during the draw period?
On a variable-rate line, the interest-only payment rises immediately while the balance does not move at all. At 8.00% the payment is $400 a month; at 11.00% it is $550, a 37.5% increase for no reduction in what you owe. A fixed home equity loan cannot do that — the trade for that certainty is that you cannot benefit if rates fall either.
Which one should I choose?
The question is really whether you will pay principal during the draw, and whether you can absorb a payment that resets upwards. If the use is a defined one-off cost and you want the payment fixed and finished, a home equity loan matches the shape of the need. If you need a revolving line you draw on repeatedly, a HELOC fits — but budget for the repayment phase from the beginning, because that is where the cost is decided.
Is the interest tax deductible?
It can be, in some jurisdictions and for some uses, and it commonly is not for others. This is a question about your tax position and your local rules rather than about the loan, it has changed more than once, and it should be checked with someone qualified before it is treated as a reason to borrow. Nothing on this page assumes any deduction.
Related guides
- APR vs interest rate — What each number actually measures, what APR leaves out, and the cases where comparing APR will lead you to the wrong lender.
- How to compare loan offers — Why the headline rate is not the comparison, the three numbers that are, and how to work out whether discount points are worth paying.
- How to pay off a loan early — Why the same extra payment saves several times more interest early in the loan than late, worked through a mortgage and a car loan, and the cases where paying ahead is the wrong choice.
- How loan amortization works — The formula term by term, a worked month-by-month example, when principal finally overtakes interest, and why extra early payments save so much.
Run your own numbers in the loan calculator.
Calculators for this topic
- Personal loan calculator — Unsecured borrowing at the rates lenders actually quote, with the origination fee maths that decides whether the money is worth taking.
- Amortization schedule — The full month-by-month and year-by-year breakdown of a fixed-rate loan, and how much interest an extra payment removes from the end of it.
- Mortgage calculator — Monthly payment with property tax, home insurance, HOA and PMI folded in — the number that actually leaves your account, not just principal and interest.
This guide is educational and is not financial advice. Figures were produced by our calculator and independently recomputed before publication; your lender's own documents govern your loan. Spot an error? Tell us — see also our disclaimer.