How to refinance a mortgage

By David Chen · Published October 3, 2026

A refinance replaces one loan with another. That sounds like a narrow, mechanical transaction, and most of the marketing around it treats it as one: a lower rate, a lower payment, a decision that makes itself. The part that gets left out is that the new loan also restarts the calendar, and the calendar is where a large share of the money lives.

The numbers below are all from one loan: $300,000 at 6.50% over 30 years, payment $1,896.20, total interest $382,633. We refinance it at the ten-year mark, when the balance stands at $254,328.

The same balance, four different decisions

Rates have fallen to 6.00%. Here is what happens to the payment and to the interest bill across the two loans put together:

Option at month 120New paymentInterest on the new loanInterest, both loansChange
Stay put$1,896.20—$382,633—
Refinance to 6.00%, 30 years$1,524.83$294,609$476,482+$93,849
Refinance to 6.00%, 20 years$1,822.09$182,973$364,845−$17,788
Refinance to 6.00%, 15 years$2,146.17$131,982$313,855−$68,779

$254,328 outstanding after 120 payments on a $300,000 loan at 6.50% over 30 years, refinanced at 6.00%. Comparison is against the $382,633 of interest the original loan would have cost if left alone. Produced by our calculator and independently recomputed.

Read the first two rows together. The rate falls by half a point, the payment falls by $371.38 a month, and the interest you pay over the life of the borrowing rises by $93,849. Nothing about the rate was a trick. The term went back to 30 years, so the balance you still owe gets charged interest for another three decades instead of the two that remained.

Then read the third row. Taking a shorter term at the same 6.00% also lowers the payment — by $74.12 — and lowers the total interest by $17,788. Both of the things people want from a refinance are available at once; the 30-year version gives up the second one in exchange for a bigger version of the first.

The single variable that decides this: the term you ask for. At the same rate, on the same balance, the difference between a 30-year and a 15-year term is $621.34 a month and $162,628 of interest. The rate is what the conversation is about; the term is what the money is about.

Why the balance had barely moved

Ten years of payments is $227,544 out of your account on this loan. Here is where it went:

After 120 payments of $1,896.20Amount
Interest paid$181,873
Principal repaid$45,672
Balance remaining$254,328

A $300,000 loan at 6.50% over 30 years. Produced by our calculator and independently recomputed.

Four dollars of interest for every dollar of principal. This is why the term matters so much: a refinance does not write off the balance, it re-borrows it, and it re-borrows it at the point in the schedule where interest is most expensive. Refinancing to save $371.38 a month is not a saving on the loan as it stands; it is a purchase of lower monthly cash flow, paid for with a longer interest bill.

A cash-out refinance has a second price

A cash-out refinance borrows more than you owe and hands you the difference. It is a rate-and-term refinance plus a new loan rolled into your mortgage, and the new loan is usually the longest, cheapest -looking way to borrow. Priced here at 6.50% over 30 years so that the only thing changing is the amount:

What you refinanceLoan amountMonthly payment
Refinance the balance only, 30 years at 6.50%$254,328$1,607.53
Refinance the balance plus $50,000, 30 years at 6.50%$304,328$1,923.56

Same 30-year term and same 6.50% rate in both rows, so the difference is entirely the $50,000. Produced by our calculator and independently recomputed.

The $50,000 costs $63,772 in interest if the loan runs its full term. That is not automatically a bad price for money — but it is a price, and it is easy to lose sight of it when the only visible change is the payment going up by $316.03. It is also worth knowing that cash-out pricing is often a little worse than rate-and-term pricing on the same day, so the comparison that matters is against the rate you are actually offered for the cash-out version, not the one quoted for the plain refinance.

The costs, and how long they take to earn back

A refinance is not free. Lender fees, title, appraisal, recording and the rest typically land somewhere around 2% of the loan, which on this balance is about $5,087. Divide that by the monthly saving and you get the number of months you have to stay for the refinance to have paid for itself:

The arithmetic behind the break-even month has its own guide — see refinance break-even point — and the individual fees are broken down in closing costs explained. What matters for this decision is the shape: a fast break-even is a statement about how long you must stay, not about whether the loan is cheaper.

What a refinance actually involves

The paperwork is similar to a purchase, minus the purchase contract. Most of it is a document collection exercise rather than a decision, and starting it early is what keeps the timeline short:

You will also be asked about debts, since a refinance is a new underwriting decision and the debt-to-income ratio is calculated again from scratch. A loan that was approved three years ago with different debts in the file is not automatically approved now.

When not to refinance

To see the effect on your own numbers, the amortization schedule shows the month interest stops outweighing principal, the mortgage calculator prices any term and rate you like, and 15-year vs 30-year mortgage covers the term decision on its own.

The short version

A refinance changes two things, and the rate is the one everyone talks about. On a $254,328 balance, moving from 6.50% to 6.00% over a fresh 30 years lowers the payment by $371.38 and raises the total interest by $93,849. The same rate over a 20-year term lowers the payment by $74.12 and reduces total interest by $17,788. Ask for the term that matches the time you actually have left, price the closing costs against the monthly saving, and treat a cash-out as a separate loan that happens to share a closing.

Frequently asked questions

Does a lower interest rate always mean a cheaper loan?

No, and the gap can be large. On a $254,328 balance, moving from 6.50% to 6.00% and restarting a 30-year term lowers the payment by $371.38 a month but raises the interest paid across both loans from $382,633 to $476,482. The rate fell; the cost of the money rose, because the new loan starts the clock again and charges interest on the whole balance for thirty more years.

How do I refinance without extending my payoff date?

Match the new term to the time remaining on the old loan rather than taking the longest term offered. If ten years have passed on a 30-year loan, ask for a 20-year term. On the same balance that produces a payment of $1,822.09 — still $74.12 lower than the $1,896.20 you were paying — and total interest across both loans falls by $17,788. A 15-year term lowers the total further but raises the monthly payment to $2,146.17.

Is a no-cost refinance really free?

Not usually. Costs are real, and if you are not paying them at closing they are generally recovered through a higher rate or added to the balance, which means you pay interest on them for the life of the loan. What a no-cost structure genuinely buys is protection if you move or refinance again soon: you do not have to stay long enough to earn back an upfront fee. The trade is that it costs more if you do stay.

How long do I have to stay for a refinance to pay off?

Divide the closing costs by the monthly saving. On this balance the costs are about $5,087 and the saving against a 20-year term is $74.12 a month, so the break-even is roughly 69 months. Against the 30-year term the saving is $371.38 a month and the break-even is under 14 months — but that is the version that also increases your total interest, so a fast break-even is not by itself a reason to take it.

Does taking cash out change what the loan costs?

It adds the cost of the money you take, on top of the refinance itself. Borrowing an extra $50,000 on the same terms raises the payment from $1,607.53 to $1,923.56 and adds $63,772 of interest over the life of the loan. Whether that is expensive depends on the alternative you are comparing it with, and cash-out pricing is often slightly worse than rate-and-term pricing, so the number to check is the rate you are actually offered for the cash-out version.

Related guides

  • Refinance break-even point — How to work out the month a refinance pays for itself, why a shorter term can raise your payment and still save six figures, and when not to refinance.
  • Closing costs explained — The three groups on a closing bill, what can be negotiated and what cannot, and the arithmetic of discount points — including why buying twice as many points barely changes the break-even month.
  • 15-year vs 30-year mortgage — The same loan on both terms, side by side: what the shorter term saves, what it costs each month, and the affordability test that decides it.
  • How to compare loan offers — Why the headline rate is not the comparison, the three numbers that are, and how to work out whether discount points are worth paying.

Run your own numbers in the loan calculator.

Calculators for this topic

  • Mortgage calculator — Monthly payment with property tax, home insurance, HOA and PMI folded in — the number that actually leaves your account, not just principal and interest.
  • Amortization schedule — The full month-by-month and year-by-year breakdown of a fixed-rate loan, and how much interest an extra payment removes from the end of it.
  • Home affordability calculator — Works the mortgage question backwards: start from your income, debts and down payment, and find the price you can actually carry rather than the price a lender will approve.

See all calculators

This guide is educational and is not financial advice. Figures were produced by our calculator and independently recomputed before publication; your lender's own documents govern your loan. Spot an error? Tell us — see also our disclaimer.